Boys' Jacket--Burda 9533

It's been a busy week, so it took me this long to find the time to sit at my computer and do the write-up for this project.  Here goes:

The pattern is for a semi-fitted boys' jacket or vest.  I made the jacket in a US size 9, European size 134.  The idea was to make him a classy jacket that would keep him warm in New England winter.  I think I achieved that.

The pattern calls for cotton, sweatshirting, gabardine, or corduroy as fabric suggestions, but I got all creative and used a toasty warm wool melton that I got from Fabric.com a couple of years ago.  Youngest Son picked a teal-ish Catalina shirting for the lining.  Not my first choice, but actually an excellent one.  He might have better taste than I do.


There's a number of really neat things about this pattern.  There is not only a back yoke (that's used for shaping), there's also a front yoke (as a design detail.  Two extra seams, but it's very nice-looking.

The patch pockets and pocket flaps are lined with the lining fabric.  Very cool.  I imagine it wouldn't be that difficult to do self-lined pocket flaps if I were doing this in a lighter weight fabric, but for the melton, this idea is downright brilliant. 

My topstitching of the patch pockets could be better, but as they say, it passes the 20 mile an hour test.

The undercollar is also of the lining fabric.  Seriously, I love the idea of using a cool lining fabric and then also using it to accent the fashion fabric.  Especially with boys' clothes.  It's always so hard to make them stuff that isn't boring.

The knit cuffs are also an interesting design feature.  They are attached to the lining first and then attached to the sleeve.  Made with ribbing, they stretch to fit over gloves.  If I make this one again (a distinct possibility as either a light jacket in Spring or another winter coat next year or maybe even both) I will make the cuffs a little smaller so they're a bit more snug around the wrists.

The sleeve patches are a bit odd, though.  I originally thought they were elbow patches, but the placement diagram on the pattern pieces puts them on the outside of the arm.

I think they're just supposed to be decoration.  I used black sheepskin leather for the patches, just topstitched along the edge with a leather needle in my treadle machine.

I used another piece of leather for the loop at center back.

The pattern calls for only three buttons, as the jacket is supposed to have lapels and a roll line.

However, for warmth, it really needs a top button.  So I placed a top button and slightly adjusted the placement for the rest of the buttons.

Hmmm.  Doesn't look as good buttoned all the way up, but if it's that cold out, looks is a secondary consideration.



I left out the shoulder pads as they seemed unnecessary, but I would include them in a Spring version.  They would definitely lend a tailored look to a jacket that already looks pretty sharp.

This is a really nice pattern.  Technically, it is very well drafted.  All the notches fit, the sleeve cap has a perfect amount of ease, the proportions are just right, and it fits nicely.  Highly recommended.