Butterick Vest in Burgundy and Pinstripes

I got this vest finished last week and this is actually the third time I've worn it--I'm only just now finding a few minutes to write the blog post.

The pattern is Butterick 5534.  I bought this at least 9 months ago and I've been drooling over it every time I look through my patterns.  Then one day last week, I was just inspired to take the plunge.  I washed the fabric, traced the pattern and cut out the pieces in just a couple of days.

I fell in love with this fabric when I first laid eyes on it, but I can now admit, after using it to make this vest, that the honeymoon is definitely over.  It's a loosely woven 100% wool, so keeping it on grain at pretty much any stage of production was virtually impossible.  I thought I'd starch it, but when I sprayed the pieces with spray starch, the edges curled up like they were alive and would put the bad behaviour of any jersey knit to shame.  I've never experienced such a thing from a wool fabric before.  I had to speak to it very firmly and utter threats under my breath in order to regain the upper hand.


But prevail I did, and there's really only one flaw on the finished product -- a bit of a ripple in the lapel right near center front.  I might be able to steam and press it out, but I spent so much time steaming and pressing this darn thing that I just want to be finished with it for now.  I still want a matching pair of trousers or a pencil skirt, but I haven't decided whether I'm that brave (or stupid!).

The pattern itself, like many Buttericks I've used recently, was well drafted and, oddly enough, fit pretty well right out of the envelope.  Which is so unusual for me that I'm still getting used to it.  I made the size 6 with no alterations and I like the way it fits.  The back is maybe allowing for more booty than I actually have, but not so much that it bothers me.  If I make this again, I will likely add a back tie or vest buckle to the back, just because I like how it looks.  Without something like that, the back looks so very plain and utilitarian.

My only complaint is Butterick's awful instructions.  I've had this happen before -- the pattern is drafted beautifully, it fits perfectly, and the instructions are absolutely terrible.  What are you trying to do, Butterick? Convince home seamstresses to throw in the towel and never buy your patterns ever again?






I mean, seriously?  Why would you sew the top collar to the top lapel, then sew the under collar to the under lapel, and then try to sew the two together.  With a notched collar?  When you could way more easily sew the top and under collar pieces together and then sandwich them between the top and under lapel pieces for assembly?  I don't like doing things the hard way to get the same results, so I've resolved to ignore Butterick's instructions from now on.

I do love the front closure with its single button.  I find that I often close sweaters, cardigans, and jackets with just one button, so this is perfect for me.  The button was ordered from a vintage button seller on ebay in Quebec.

And I ended up choosing the same lining I used for Josh's vest.  This kind of purple shimmery stuff with the jacquard leaves and ripples.  I really needed something nice and stable after discovering how very unstable the fabric was.  And it looks cool, too.

All in all, a nice project.  Well worth every minute of effort.  I've worn this with jeans and heels, cargoes and boots, and trousers and pumps.  Looked great every time, so I think it's a winner.